Hiking on the highest mountain in Thaliand, Doi Inthanon National Park
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When it gets too hot to stay in Chiangmai city, no worries,
just go to Doi Inthanon National Park a short 90 kilometers away. Bring
a jacket, believe it or not, you will need it.
When it gets hot here
in Chiangmai during the months of April through May we load the pick-up
truck and head to the highest mountain in Thailand at Doi Inthanon National
Park.
Soon after entering the park gate, the road climbs steeply through a
cutting before leveling out, passing the Doi Inthanon National Park Information
Center, overlooking the Mae Klang river on the left. The road passes
through open dry forest and after crossing over to the left bank, follows
the course of the river, overlooking it. In the dry season, the leaves
of the trees become yellow and red, before being shed.
As the road climbs gradually, an evergreen gallery forest begins develop
along the banks of the river, supporting many tall and stately trees.
Soaring birds of prey can sometimes be seen over the steep ridge on the
north side of the road. The more level areas in the vicinity of the river
are now cultivated and support small areas of orchard or vegetable gardens.
Above the waterfall, the road once again crosses over the Mae Klang
River and continues to ascend the mountain, following the north bank.
The surroundings change very abruptly in character, and pines predominate
in many areas.
The next area supports Hmong and Karen villages, there are many government
offices and residential buildings, including the headquarters of the
National Park and various highway and construction works. Here is where
the campsites are but you first must check in at the Park Headquarters.
There are also cabins for rent however most are rented well in advance.
Here we are above 1500 meters and the temperature is like a beautiful
spring day. Time to find a camping spot. Its lunchtime, so we travel
up the road about 100 meters from the Park Headquarters to the Doi Inthanon
Birding Center. There are several restaurants near the park headquarters
but the food is not very good. Mr. Dang and his wife at the birding center
are excellent cooks and fun to be around. Here is where all the bird
watchers gather to talk about sightings. We will talk about bird watching
later.
From here the road winds uphill sharply and past a park checkpoint.
Just a little further is a mountain ridge with excellent vistas on both
sides of the road. If the weather is clear, at one spot you can see the
city of Chiangmai on your right. Just a little further on your left is
the twin Chedi dedicated to the King and Queen. These beautiful Thai
structures are a must visit. You will need to walk up several flights
of steps to reach them but well worth it.
Next stop is the summit. Here we get out of our vehicle and walk up
the steps to the shrine dedicated to the Lanna Thai King who first designated
this area as a national park. Walk behind the shrine to a concrete pillar
and stand on it. You are now on the highest point in Thailand.
We departed Chiangmai at 9 am it was already 35 degrees C. and started
the short 1 1/2 hour drive to the park. We left Chiangmai by highway
108 through Hang Dong and Sanpatong and then about one kilometer before
Chom Tong turned right on highway 1009. There is a big sign in English
stating "Doi Inthanon" where you turn so it's easy to find.
Continue 8 kilometers to where the road forks and then keep to the right
where you will see the park entrance. The entrance fee is 200 baht and
they have free maps and information for you that you will need. A copy
of the park map can be seen online and might be a useful reference as
you read this article.
Your first stop should be the Visitor's Center a kilometer or so past
the park entrance on the left side. There they have more information
and many exhibits and a slide show about the park in English. You need
to know the park rules that levy stiff fines if broken (such as for picking
flowers); these rules are written on the back of all the maps and brochures.
After getting all the information we needed we headed straight to the
Park Headquarters at Kilometer marker 31. As we approached the booth
for accommodations reservations both we noticed a thermometer and found
it was a perfect 26 degrees C. We decided to spend our first night in
a tent and second night in a bungalow. We made our reservations for the
bungalow. Since we were going to ride around the park the park ranger
kept our bags for us and we proceeded to the campgrounds to pitch our
tent. Tents can be rented for 60 baht and blankets at 15 baht each.
After putting up the tent we were getting hungry and headed back to
see our friend Mr.Dang at the Doi Inthanon Birding Center. Mr. Dang’s
restaurant is open from 7 am to 8 pm serving delicious Thai food at great
prices. While having lunch we were told that a 7- man soccer match was
being played this afternoon on the soccer field next to the restaurant
on the Park Headquarters grounds. The match was between a Karen hill
tribe village and a Hmong hill tribe village located in the park so we
stayed and watched the action under the shade trees drinking ice-cold
beer. We made plans to do some hiking on the Gew Mae Pan Trail near the
Doi Inthanon summit (above 2000 meters tomorrow) so today was for relaxing,
which I myself am very good at doing.
Just before dark we ate our dinner, again at Mr. Dang’s, got our
things from the park ranger and went to our campgrounds. In May there
aren't many people in the park so a secluded place to put our tent was
easy to find. We built a nice campfire and I spent the evening reading
while my wife did her crochet. The only sound was that of the crickets
and with the smell of pine and clean fresh air drifting off to sleep
was a total pleasure I haven't experienced in many months while living
in the crowded city. The next morning we awoke early and packed up the
tent and returned to the park ranger and again he kept our bags for us.
I checked the thermometer and it was a cool 18 degrees C.
We had our breakfast at the birding center headed toward the summit
passing fruit and flower stands owned by Hmong Hilltribe people. Here
we stopped to have a look and across the street were green houses filled
with beautiful flowers. The growing of flowers is a Royal Project so
the hill tribe people can live in harmony with the park's conservation
plans instead of doing their traditional slash and burn farming.
The 2.5-kilometer Gew Mae Pan Trail begins about half a kilometer past
the twin Chedis at kilometer marker 42. We decided to leave our vehicle
at the Chedi and walk the horseshoe shaped trail to the end and return
the same way. This turned out to be a good idea as the mountains were
covered with mist and clouds and the view although beautiful was limited
on our way out. On the way back the clouds had lifted and the view was
spectacular.
The trail begins through dense forest with lush ferns and moss covering
the tree trunks. Wild orchids and colorful birds are plentiful. It's
uphill most of the way, crossing streams and climbing over and ducking
under logs. The temperature is perfect for hiking and the sounds of the
many birds and creeks are very enjoyable. After about an hour you come
upon a clearing looking toward the west. When we arrived clouds were
rushing up from the valley floor to meet us.
The next portion of the trail is through dense forest again crossing
several streams. The park has provided small bridges to make crossing
the streams easy. The last part of the trail is through a lovely evergreen
forest with pine trees much different and larger than those found at
our campsite.
We returned the way we came following the trail to the clearing and
this time the clouds had lifted leaving a spectacular view of the valley
floor and surrounding mountains. Two hawks were circling above, diving
to the valley floor then lifting again on the air currents along the
cliff edge, their screeching echoing through the canyon below.
We spent a total of six hours on the trail and saw only two other people.
They were Thai photographers doing a story for a nature magazine. We
could have stayed longer but hunger was setting in so we returned to
the restaurant at the Birding Center.
This evening was spent in our comfortable bungalow. We made reservations
the day before. The bungalow has electricity and is equipped with a king
size bed in the bedroom and a single bed with table and chairs on the
porch. It has simple bathroom with shower and western style
toilet.
The next day we spent visiting the many waterfalls in the park. The
first one was very close to our bungalow and actually two waterfalls
named after the King and Queen and called Siriphum waterfalls. The next
two waterfalls were also close together and the road getting there was
a little difficult but worth the effort. We went just past the second
check point at kilometer marker 38 and turned left toward Mae Chaem and
traveled about 8 kilometers. Here there is a sign where you turn right
and travel the dirt road for 2 kilometers to the ranger station. From
there it's a 500-meter walk to Mae Pan waterfall and 200 meters to Huai
Luaeng waterfall.
Our last stop was on the way out of the park at Mae Ya waterfall. To
get there you need to go back to Cham Tong and just before you get to
highway 108 you will see the sign Mae Ya waterfall. Follow the signs
for about 14 kilometers from here. There will be a checkpoint where they
collect a 200 baht fee to enter. Just tell them you have been staying
in the park and show them the receipt and they will let you in for free.
This waterfall is great for photographs and over 250 meters tall. Try
to go on a weekday, as the weekends are very crowded with Thais picnicking
and swimming.
We had a great time although we didn't see everything such as Brichinda
cave. We would also like to spend some time bird watching. The Park staff
was a great help and very friendly and I would recommend this trip to
anyone.